Lateral Damp is caused when there is soil higher on the other side of the wall causing the damp to enter the wall laterally from the soil. Lateral damp is prevalent in cellars and houses built into the side of a hill.

No, DRYROD is designed specifically to prevent Rising Damp/Salt Damp.

No system on the market can get rid of the salts and or any residual moisture already in the wall above where you have introduced the new Damp Proof Course. The residual moisture will dry out over a period of time depending on how damp the walls are and weather conditions. However the residual salts will continue to attract airborne moisture so it is imperative to introduce a salt retarder/moisture barrier into the new render if and when replastering.

No, we recommend Stormdry also manufactured by Safeguard in the U.K. For more information on Stormdry visit www.stormdry.com.au.

No, it is advisable to aggressively remove all loose mortar with a screwdriver and/or stiff wire brush and re-point with 5 parts builders sand and 1 part cement before injecting DRYROD.

If the existing render is bubbling then it is contaminated with salts and needs to be removed. Sanding back will not solve the problem and is a waste of time as the salts will reactivate and cause more bubbling.

Yes, but we recommend that you leave the existing render on for at least six months to act as a sacrificial poultice to help draw out any residual moisture and salts if present.

No, you only need to replaster the bottom part, normally up to 600-700mm but in any event at least 100mm above the height of the rising damp.

You only need to plug the holes for aesthetic reasons and they can be plugged straight after application.

No. The rods are a solid, fibrous rod designed to remain in the hole.

I often get asked this question and despite all the test reports and the 30 year warrantee the bottom line is that I like to sleep at night and wouldn't be selling it if it didn't work.